Get Outside! Discovery Trail

Brave the winter rains by hiking this mostly paved trail that replicates the route of Lieutenant William Clark’s famous hike on November 19th 1805. The 8.2 mile (13.2 km) long Discovery Trail on the Washington coast connects several communities, travels over a forested coastal bluff, and traverses wetlands and dunes along the Pacific Ocean. The shoreline scenery is breathtaking. But what really makes this trail so much fun and intriguing are the numerous historic sculptures commemorating the Corps of Discovery’s epic journey.

You can access this trail from ten locations, making for plenty of hiking options. But try to arrange for a shuttle to do the whole 8.2 mile (13.2 km) trail in one sweep. The trail starts at a California condor monument on the Ilwaco waterfront. Walk along Waterfront Way through the small port town at the mouth of the Columbia River before reaching the bona fide trail. The paved path then skirts the extensive wetlands of Fords Dry Lake where newts often venture onto the trail. Watch your step.

The way then crests a mist-shrouded bluff graced with groves of big Sitka spruce. The trail then enters sprawling Cape Disappointment State Park and descends to Beards Hollow, a former cove that’s now a wildlife-rich marsh. At 2.0 miles (3.2 km), the trail reaches a parking lot and junction. Here a paved 1.0 mile (1.6 km) trail heads left for the North Head Lighthouse—a worthy and scenic side trip.

The Discovery Trail skirt Beards Hollow and heads through a gap between basaltic headlands before reaching dunes and beach views. There are good views too of North Head hovering to the south. The path then heads north through waves of dunes with views of ocean waves pounding a sandy silver strand. After crossing Beards Hollow’s outlet creek on a bridge the way cuts across dunes being colonized by pines and patches of invasive Scotch broom. It then passes the first of numerous trailheads in Seaview and Long Beach

Be sure to stop along the way at the various interpretive panels, a dolphin sculpture, and a gray whale skeleton and sculpture. The trail then parallels Long Beach’s boardwalk, reaching the Bolstad Arch Trailhead. The path continues, coming to one of the more intriguing attractions—a sculpture of Clark, a big sturgeon, and a basalt monolith commemorating the November 19th, 1805 “hike.’ Beyond is yet another intriguing sculpture—this one a 19-foot (5.8 m) bronze sculpture replicating “Clark’s Tree,” where the Lt. inscribed “William Clark. Nov. 19, 1805. By land from the U. States.” Here he returned to camp on the Columbia River. The Discovery Trail carries on a little farther turning east and soon reaching its northern terminus at the Breakers Trailhead (26th Street NW).

Craig Romano is an award-winning author of more than 20 books. For detailed information on this hike and many others in the region, pick up a copy of his bestselling Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula (Mountaineers Books).

Location: Long Beach Peninsula, Washington

Distance: 8.2 miles (13.2 km) one way

Elevation gain: 200 feet (61 m)

Difficulty: easy

Trail notes: Dogs permitted on leash; trail open to bikes; Discover Pass required at trailheads in Cape Disappointment State Park

Trail highlights: coastal views, old-growth Sitka spruce groves, dunes, historic displays, sculptures

Contact for more info: Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau

Getting to the Trail: From Portland, drive US 26 west to Astoria and cross the Astoria-Megler Bridge to Washington. Then follow US 101 for 11 miles (17.7 km) north to Ilwaco. Turn left onto Elizabeth Ave and after two blocks turn right onto Howerton Ave. Park on Howerton Avenue for the southern trailhead located between Advent Ave and Pearl Ave. The trail begins at the Waterfront Walkway. For the northern trailhead drive US 101 to SR 103 in Seaview. Then drive north on SR 103 for 2.9 miles (4.7 km) and turn left onto 26th Street for trailhead parking at the Breakers. There are eight other trailheads including Bolstad Arch in Long Beach.

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