The Lakes Trail travels for more than 13 miles (21 km) across some of the most stunning backcountry within the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument. From its western terminus at the Coldwater Lake boat launch to Elk Pass at the eastern gate of the Mount Margaret backcountry—this trail traverses the shoreline of a half dozen lakes. Remarkably, nearly a third of the way is just along Coldwater Lake.

The massive lake was formed when debris and earth from Mount St. Helens’ 1980 eruption dammed Coldwater Creek. Today Coldwater Lake is more than four miles (6.4 km) long and 200 feet (61 m) deep. Wildlife is abundant along its shores. Wildflowers are prolific from late spring through the summer. Sweeping views are continuous. The surrounding mountains and ridges beautifully reflect on the lake’s waters when placid—or mirror rippling images when breezes funnel down from the surrounding slopes.

The westernmost stretch of this trail is often free of snow by early spring. And while the westernmost four miles of this trail run along Coldwater Lake from its outlet to its inlet—don’t be fooled into thinking the way is level. The trail climbs and skirts lakeside ledges and steep slopes leading to several up and down jaunts. You’ll gain and lose more than 500 vertical feet on the out-and-back along the lake.

Start your hike just west of the boat launch and begin your journey along sprawling Coldwater Lake—the second largest lake within the monument. The trail travels through former clear-cuts and across the blast zone. What was a stark environment in the early 1980s is now a vibrant, recovering ecosystem. The resiliency of nature is on full display here–from flowered slopes to shady emerald groves of alders, willows, and cottonwoods.

Immediately take in good views of Mount St Helens and little Hummock Island. Throughout the hike, enjoy good viewing of surrounding Coldwater Peak and the stark southern face of Minnie Peak. In less than a mile, come to a junction with the Elk Bench Trail. This trail climbs 600 feet in one mile to the former Coldwater Science and Learning Center. The Mount St. Helens Institute is trying to secure the funding to acquire this building, which will make for an excellent outdoor campus for learners of all ages and backgrounds.

The Lakes Trail continues its northeast journey along Coldwater Lake, soon coming to a spot right at water’s edge perfect for calling it a day for a short hike. It’s also a wonderful spot for restless children to while away the afternoon as swimming is permitted here.

The trail continues along the lake, passing some fallen giant firs. They’re reminders of the grand forest that once stood here before logging and nature ravaged it. But as pioneering alders now grow tall awaiting the next successional stage, an old-growth forest will once again grace these shores a couple of human lifetimes from now. The way comes to the first of several creeks that need to be crossed. Most can easily be hopped across. One spans a pretty waterfall.

The way eventually skirts some cliffs before negotiating steep ledges hovering high above the lake. Watch your footing here and keep children close by as the dropoff is substantial. The trail then begins a descent, reaching a wide rocky outwash. Follow cairns across the open rocky and sandy terrain, eventually coming to flowered flats at lake level. The trail continues across the flat, reaching the lake’s marshy eastern end. Look for beaver activity here among the alder thickets.

The trail then follows Coldwater Creek, gently climbing a couple hundred feet and passing beneath some massive fallen firs before reaching a junction with the Coldwater Trail at 4.5 miles. This is a good spot to turn around—but before doing so, consider walking a short distance south on the Coldwater Trail to a sturdy bridge spanning the thundering creek. Here admire the creek cascading through a tight chasm—then cast your eyes upward to stone gargoyles peering down upon you from stark Minnie Peak. As shadows lower in the valley, start your return back to your vehicle.

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Craig Romano is an award-winning author of more than twenty hiking guidebooks, including Day Hiking Mount St. Helens (Mountaineers Books) which includes every trail (including backpacking trips and winter trails) within the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument.

 

Location: Mount St Helens National Volcanic Monument, WA

Distance: 9.0 miles (14.5 kilometers) roundtrip

Elevation gain: 550 feet (168 meters)

Difficulty: moderate

Trail notes: Northwest Forest Pass (or interagency pass) required; no dogs; kid-friendly; no camping; trail is also open to mountain bikes; off trail travel prohibited. Practice Leave No Trace Principles.

Trail highlights: Sparkling eruption-made lake, prolific wildflowers, excellent early and late season snow-free hiking option; exceptional elk habitat

Contact: Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument