Always check avalanche and weather reports before heading out. More info at the Northwest Avalanche Center via this link.
“Nature is the art of God,” wrote the great Italian poet Dante Alighieri. Stand upon Artist Point above Heather Meadows in Washington’s Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest on a crisp and cool winter bluebird day and you’ll witness perhaps the most divine masterpiece ever etched upon the planet. From this mile-high ridge punctuated with contorted hemlocks and firs, you’re framed by two of the most glaciated and iconic mountains in Cascadia: 10,781-foot Mount Baker and 9,131-foot Mount Shuksan. A breathtaking scene any time of the year, when winter’s snows blanket the road leading to the parking lot at Artist Point, the area takes on an even more wild and untamed beauty. And snowshoeing here to revel in all of this scenic glory doesn’t require excessive amounts of energy or any technical skills.
The winter trek to Artist Point begins near the Mount Baker Ski Area at Heather Meadows. Beginning at an elevation of 4,200 feet (1,280 m), you only need to climb 1,000 vertical feet (305 m) to reach this alpine easel. The route is via a snowbound scenic Forest Service road that was constructed in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC). The way is usually pretty safe from avalanches, but you’ll want to stay away during periods of high avalanche warnings. So always check with the Northwest Avalanche Center before beginning.
Starting in subalpine forest, skirt along the Mount Baker Ski Area and traverse Heather Meadows. On a ridge above the frozen basin cradling Bagley Lakes, enjoy exceptional views of the snow-shrouded slopes of Table Mountain and Mount Hermann. Avalanches are frequent on those slopes—so stay far away from those peaks and the bowls between them. The way to Artist Point soon steepens—but only briefly. Once you’re past the ski area the grade moderates.
Now snowshoe through Austin Pass, adorned with groves of ancient conifers. Then traverse a steep side slope before entering a large open area. Eventually bend right, making it to the broad open area on Kulshan Ridge known as Artist Point. Annual snowfall here is epic—some of the heaviest amounts ever recorded in North America. The views here from Artist Point are certainly inspiring, but they’re even better farther out along the ridge.
Staying away from cornices and over-hanging snow drifts, walk east along the rolling frozen ridgeline. Pause to admire clusters of windblown contorted hemlocks adorned in winter regalia. And stop frequently to capture in pixels, your mind’s eye, or even on a canvas if you’ve schlepped one up here—this one of the most gorgeous views in the Pacific Northwest. To the east, there’s 9,131-foot Mount Shuksan—one of the most photographed mountains in the country. And to the west 10,778-foot Mount Baker—Washington’s third highest and snowiest summit. And don’t neglect to look south down to the Baker River valley and north to the craggy peaks lining the Washington-British Columbia border.
Snowshoe as far east as 5,200-foot Hontoon Point, a mere 2.5 miles (4 km) from your start. Spread out the space blanket, pull out the thermos and pour yourself a cup of hot tea or soup. Guard your crackers from lunch-marauding gray jays and sit for as long as you can in this winter environment. When the sun gets low in the sky, slowly return the way you came—admiring the long shadows on the slopes cast by stately trees and languid snowshoers. Excite over the prospects of a spring return—or better yet a trip here during a full moon when it’s revealed that the only things grander than Mounts Baker and Shuksan covered in snow and ice are their icy silhouettes against a starry night sky.
All photos courtesy of Craig Romano.
Craig Romano is an award-winning author of more than twenty hiking guidebooks. For details on this hike and others near Mount Baker, pick up a copy of his Day Hiking North Cascades (Mountaineers Books).
Distance: 5.0 miles (8.0 kilometers) roundtrip
Elevation gain: 1,000 feet (305 m)
Difficulty: moderate
Trail notes: Always check avalanche conditions before setting out, dogs must be leashed, practice Leave No Trace principles.
Trail highlights: spectacular alpine scenery and close up views of Mount Baker and Mount Shuksan.
Contact: Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest
Getting to the trail: From Seattle: follow I-5 north to Exit 255 in Bellingham. Then drive SR 542 east for 55 miles (88.5 km) to a parking area near the upper lodge of the Mount Baker Ski Area. Be sure to check road conditions before travel.
From Vancouver, BC: follow Trans Canada 1 east to Exit 92 in Abbotsford. Then drive BC 11 south for 2.1 miles (3.3 km) to the Sumas border crossing. Enter the US, drive 0.6 mile (1 km) on SR 9 and continue south on SR 547 for 10.7 miles (17.2 km). Then drive SR 542 east for 32 miles (51.5 km) to a parking area near the upper lodge of the Mount Baker Ski Area. Be sure to check road conditions before travel.